- Time4h 0'
- Vertical rise685 m
- Vertical descent685 m
- Horizontal distance5,0 Km
- Type of journeyReturn
- Severity of the natural environment3
- Difficulty in movement5
- Amount of effort required3
Head in an easterly direction from Arrémoulit refuge (2305 m), bordering the lake until reaching a signpost indicating a crossroads (crossing with route 08). This route separates at this point from the bank of the lake and gains height on partial footpaths to a small lake located to the south of Lac de Palas. Head straight up the valley without following a path and always towards the east. Only on the last stretch are there some zigzags and some painted markings and cairns indicating the route to this point. We now reach Cuello de Palas (2515 m).
From the saddle we can see a rocky spur to our left, jutting out from the southwest crest of Palas. Continue from the pass on a broken path maintaining altitude and following the painted markings, cross over the spur and an ironstone rocky ledge. We reach a chaotic basin full of boulders. Numerous cairns and partial paths can lead to confusion at this point (crossing with routes 09, 13 and 29). We have to head upwards here towards the cirque crowning the valley in search of the base of the south face of Palas. We follow the markers over broken ground leading to a key feature of this ascent: Ledormeur chimney. We ignore the first chimney visible to the left and continue upwards to the foot of the rock face. We cross over some granite slabs and up a short vertical climb to reach the chimney. We start ascending the chimney but after climbing the first few metres we will see a short ledge leading to the foot of the Ledormeur chimney. There is a yellow sign at the base identifying it, a rappel anchor point and the red painted markings that will guide us all the way up the chimney.
There is an easy climb up this chimney with plenty of handholds, although because it is so vertical we do need to take care. Helmets are a must because of the risk of falling stones if there are people above you. We climb Ledormeur chimney to reach the divide at the top. A path opens up alternating on either side of the ridge on the grassy slope which takes us on an easy walk to a wide channel. We walk the last few metres on this path with some short simple climbs when the gorge narrows near the top. Scramble over the last few boulders to reach the summit of Palas peak (2970 m).
The way back is on the same route. Ropes are recommended for descending Ledormeur chimney, although it is viable without them. There are rappel anchoring points fitted in the rock. Helmets are compulsory on the way up and down the chimney.